INSIDER'S GUIDE TO PHILADELPHIA A true city of neighborhoods, Philadelphia is a terrific town for exploring. Aside from the historical sites, we have a wealth of gems for those who relish traveling off-the-beaten-path. INDEPENDENCE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK Of course, the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall and Carpenters' Hall are all musts for the first-time visitor to Philadelphia. We are proud to be the birthplace of our nation, and a tour of these sites provides background on the events of that time. Walk down Elfreth's Alley, the oldest street in the States. When you've tired of walking, horse-drawn carriage rides are available throughout the area, with a slice-of-life commentary by the knowledgeable drivers. After sightseeing, you may want to do a bit of shopping in the historic Bourse Building at 5th & Market Streets, directly opposite the Liberty Bell. Or, walk West on Market Street to 9th Street to browse through The Gallery, the largest urban mall in the country. On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays don't miss the thriving Reading Terminal Market at 12th & Market Streets. Here, the Amish farmers, butchers and bakers join dozens of produce, fish, deli, book and flower vendors to create a bustling spectacle for your senses. The sights and smells will make your mouth water. There are dozens of tables and chairs for sampling the taste treats, although you'll have a hard time deciding what to try first. There are also numerous "sit-down" restaurants in the down-home diner tradition, some with counter service, like the 12th Street Cantina (a favorite of mine for Mexican food). The market occupies the first floor of the historic, Victorian-era Reading Railroad Terminal. (Renovation to the huge 90-foot high train shed has just been completed as part of our new Convention Center, and it is spectacular with marble flooring and steel "tracks" inlaid in the floor where the old train tracks were.) You may want to picnic in Independence National Historical Park with your market purchases or dine in one of many restaurants in the food court at The Gallery or one of the dozens of restaurants in this area, such as: Ouzo (Greek food), on 3rd Street, just North of Chestnut St. (try the moussaka - outstanding!) DiNardo's Crabs, 312 Race Street Azalea, Omni Hotel, 4th & Chestnut (great American dishes!) Siam Cuisine (Thai), 925 Arch Street (try the daily fish special with curry cream sauce) PENN'S LANDING/SOCIETY HILL The Penn's Landing area is located along the Delaware River on Delaware Avenue from Race Street south to Spruce Street, with Society Hill occupying the adjacent area along Front Street. You'll find many historic sites in Society Hill; Penn's Landing is a recreational park with a marina, water taxis, great nightclubs and a ferry crossing the river to the New Jersey State Aquarium. Nearly every weekend in the summer, we have a concert or festival in this area. Check Friday's "Weekend" section of The Philadelphia Inquirer for current listings. For example, every Memorial Day weekend, we have Jambalaya Jam with dozens of bands from New Orleans. We also have German, Italian, Polish, Irish and Greek festivals. The Fourth of July fireworks display along the river is always spectacular and well worth a visit. Restaurants abound within walking distance of Penn's Landing, including some of those listed under Independence Park area: The Chart House, 555 S. Delaware Avenue Downey's, Front & South Streets Middle East Restaurant, 126 Chestnut St. Pizzeria Uno, 511 S. 2nd St. The Monte Carlo Living Room (fine dining), 2nd & South Sts. Bridget Foy's, 200 South Street MUSEUM AREA Beginning at 19th Street and Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia has a concentrated collection of great museums, such as: * Academy of Natural Sciences (dinosaurs and fun science exhibits), 19th & Benjamin Franklin Parkway * Please Touch Museum (great place for children, especially on a rainy day), 210 N. 21st Street * Franklin Institute Science Museum (great fun for the entire family - let kids walk through the heart and be sure to see a show in the Planetarium and in the Omniverse Theater), 20th & Benjamin Franklin Parkway * Rodin Museum (excellent collection), 22nd & Ben Franklin Pky * Philadelphia Museum of Art, 26th & Ben Franklin Parkway (children love the Armor rooms, complete with suits of armor for both man and horse, as well as various weaponry). Be sure to walk through the Japanese Tea House, Chinese temple and Persian rooms. There is a very nice restaurant and cafeteria in the museum. * Free Library of Philadelphia, 19th & Ben Franklin Parkway. There is a little-known cafeteria on the top floor of the Library. Restaurants in the museum area include: Mezzanotte, 1701 Green St. London, 2301 Fairmount Avenue (casual, contemporary) Morton's Restaurant of Chicago, One Logan Square (excellent steaks, expensive) Four Seasons Hotel, Fountain Restaurant, One Logan Sq. (great service, great meal, expensive) Four Seasons Hotel, Swan Court - good for afternoon tea evening cocktails ITALIAN MARKET The Italian Market is a one-of-a-kind sight to see: begin your walk at Ninth Street & Washington Avenue in South Philadelphia. This is a definite stop if you want to purchase foods for a picnic lunch. Right on the corner is Giordano's for produce; continue walking North on 9th Street, passing meat, poultry, bread and cheese shops. This is the market scene from the movie "Rocky". Mangia! Philadelphia abounds with scores of wonderful Italian restaurants, each with its own special attraction. I'll list some of my favorites, keeping in mind that you may have to use transportation to get to some of them: LaGrolla, 782 S. 2nd St. (Expensive, fine dining; excellent veal; famous for game) Felicia's, 1148 S. 11th St. (Moderate prices; lively, fun atmosphere with homemade pasta dishes) Osteria Romana, 935 Ellsworth St. (Expensive, fine dining; call ahead to find out about their porchetta night) Victor Cafe, 1303 Dickinson St. (for fans of opera, this is the place to dine - they play old recordings through- out the evening, and the waitstaff sing arias; fine dining) CentAnni, 770 S. 7th St. (casual atmosphere, what I call red-sauce-Italian) Melrose Diner, 1501 Snyder Ave. (a South Philadelphia institution for good, homey food) Mara Brothers, 1533 S. 11th St (BYOB, good food, moderate) Villa Di Roma, 936 S. 9th St. (good red-sauce-cuisine) CHEESESTEAKS - Decades of competition linger still between the famous Pat's King of Steaks, 1237 E. Passyunk Avenue, and Geno's Steaks at 1219 S. 9th Street. Decide for yourself who makes the best cheesesteak. PHILADELPHIA ZOO Don't miss a visit to the zoo at 34th Street & Girard Avenue, the oldest in the U.S. We have several new habitats and exhibits, including two white lion cubs. Young children love the Treehouse with its live presentations aimed directly at the under-7 crowd. The outdoor polar bear pool is always a treat for kids and adults. MANAYUNK Follow the Schuylkill River Northwest via East or West River Drive to the old milltown of Manayunk, which is where many of the yarn and woolen mills were located. A working class neighborhood, this area has experienced a renaissance within the past 5-10 years, offering many upscale boutiques and excellent restaurants. This is the section of Philadelphia famous for the "Manayunk Wall", a steep uphill climb for the racers of the Corestates Professional Bike Race, held every year in early June. Held the same weekend is the "Main Street Stroll", a marvelous, fun evening with many people dressed in Victorian costumes and many more people just strolling along Main Street. Two other well-organized, fun events are the Manayunk Canal Day Parade in mid-May and the Manayunk Art Festival in June. You could dine at a different restaurant every night and never be disappointed here. Try any of the following: Sonoma, 4411 Main Street- the hottest spot in town Le Bus, 4266 Main Street- fun, noisy crowd - kid menu United States Hotel Bar & Grill, 4439 Main Street - try their corn crab chowder - out of this world Casa Mexicana, 111 Cotton Street - good Mex food Siamese Princess, 4421 Main Street - unusual Thai dishes Main-ly Desserts, 4249 Main Street - the place to indulge